THE NORTH RIM from "Our Bucket List Adventure" by Sherry Campbell Bechtold
When
we arrived at Jacob Lake, it was already well into the afternoon and
overcast for the first time on our journey. We faced a 40 mile
drive to the North Rim and decided to "just go". We're
practically at the Grand Canyon for heaven's sake. Why wait another
minute?
The
road from the Lake to the Canyon is almost straightaway. There are no other vehicles on the
road. There are no buildings along
the way. We drive – not in a
hurry, but with purpose. Dark
clouds fill the vast sky and threaten rain – or worse. Pine forests in the deepest green you
can imagine frame the gold Aspens, bright as sunlight, opening to sweeping
flaxen meadows. It's easy to imagine mule deer and antelope waiting in
the shadows for dusk. Somewhere
along that long entrance road, we feel the world fall away behind us. The radio is turned off and even the
sounds of the truck engine fade into quiet.
In
moments, we are transported into a parking lot not quite full of cars and RVs.
When we emerge from the truck, we realize the same magic Hush is outside
too. A few people chat
imperceptibly and walk their barkless, well behaved dogs. Even though
there are no signs, we know where to go –
along a charming group of individual log cabins, pine trees and
meandering walkways, leading to the beautiful North Rim Lodge. Rustic. Elegant. A
proud sentry for the North Rim.
A
few steps around the Lodge and we're on the stone patio overlooking the Canyon
- indescribable, patient, bearing witness.
Miles
away, on the South Rim and beyond, several rainstorms span the horizon, an
occasional lightning strike connecting heaven and earth, distant thunder we
can't hear. It takes some doing to
adjust and begin to tune in to those around us.
A
tour guide wearing an old cowboy hat easily entertains a few of his groupies
with tales of past expeditions. He hasn’t been home in 14 years.
Always on the road, a gypsy. To our right, a delightful gentleman is
engrossed in discussion of the Western Condor, which he has been hunting with
his binoculars all day.
Tiny,
fleeting life forms, we.
Destined to leave scarcely an echo in our wake. We are blessed to
be here. In the face of this miracle, all we really have to offer is our
gratitude. Everyone seems to know that. There is a gentle comradery among
us, above all there is reverence.
We
learn that there is just enough time to drive to Royal Point for sunset,
promised to be glorious because of the day long churning clouds. After
several miles of twists and turns on another lonely road, we find a small group
of parked cars, and realize we need to get out and walk the rest of the
way. It's so close to sunset, I’m
worried I won’t get to the Point in time. But the sights of Canyon and
sky on both sides of this skywalk peninsula are intoxicating, and I find my feet carrying me in that
direction without hesitation. I am entering into a state of Grace as I
emerge from the walkway onto a stone platform. Shafts of light cross the
eastern Canyon walls, the rim brilliant against a charcoal backdrop, the
plummeting depths of inner space, lost in darkness. The western sky is a
symphony of colors throwing a party with the setting Libra sun, as he whispers
'goodnight' and gathers the blankets around him.
It’s
almost dark when we rewind ourselves down the mountain and begin our slow drive
over the plateau toward Jacob Lake through misty rain and intermittent fog.
A lone Coyote appears in our peripheral light in the meadow, and a little
later, a Mule Deer catches sight of us and leaps through the tall grass toward
the Aspens. The fog clears, revealing a crystal clear night full of stars
and directly in front of us, Big Dipper rests low on the horizon and is so
enormous, I fancy myself walking through the meadow and reaching up to touch
it. Bliss.
I will live to wish I could return to
this day time and time again.
And when the angels ask me to recall the thrill of them all, I will tell
them I remember the North Rim.
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